Friday, November 23, 2012

Heidemarie returns with an awkward sterility


I enjoyed the sterility for the most part. So when those looks with the iridescent polka dots trotted out one after the other, with one that seemed a copy of another, I was a bit more than startled; I was a little displeased.

They seemed haphazard, crafted even. These are not words that I normally use to describe Jil Sander whether under the tutelege of Raf or Heidemarie herself.

And yes every collection requires this: a comparison to the powerful yet subtle collections of Raf Simons even though Heidemarie Jiline started the brand. We did the same with him until he'd proven himself and now she must do the same; prove herself in her own house.

With the booties she does it, and does so beautifully. Clean, powerful, minimal, solid. Yes, solid is what I prefer to refer to some of the best offerings from the Sander brand. Not in the least bit flighty, nor trendy but solid, able to withstand the test of time. And of course, there are those shapes.

Jil the woman prefers them a little awkward, in this collection, even a little Amish maybe. Which of course isn't in itself negative thing: the jackets, cropped or not, as well as some of the skirts from this collection were beauties. No instead, it's just a thing.

For me, so far, both of Heidemarie's collection have been just that, just "things." I've yet to see the moment, the reason that Raf was ousted and she welcomed back. But maybe, just maybe that'll come next season.

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